Manufacturing of Döners: Balancing Passion and Labor Disputes - Labor-intensive doner production: Balancing passion and industrial action
In the heart of Murr near Stuttgart, Birtat, one of Germany's largest döner producers, churns out kebab meat skewers for thousands of kebab stands and fast food establishments nationwide. The daily production process involves chopping the meat, marinating it, pushing chunks onto long metal skewers, and then shock-freezing the skewers for delivery to more than 13 million consumers monthly.
The work at Birtat is physically demanding, with workers often toiling in cold or near-freezing temperatures to keep the meat fresh. Many of the employees are immigrants from Turkey, Romania, or Bulgaria, performing repetitive tasks such as marinating and skewering the meat. This environment has historically led to labor disputes and demand for better wages.
Muzayfe Doganer, a döner production manager at Birtat, has been at the forefront of addressing these issues. Doganer, who hails from Adana, Turkey, where 'Adana Kebap' is a specialty, started working at Birtat in 2011 after moving to Germany and learning the döner business from scratch. His hard work and dedication paid off when he was promoted to team leader, production manager, and works council chairman.
Doganer and his colleagues fought for fair pay, particularly addressing the gender pay gap. Their efforts culminated in a union-backed wage agreement starting at a monthly salary of 2,600 euros, with scheduled raises through 2026. The salary dispute has been resolved, and a house tariff has been agreed upon.
Despite the challenges, Doganer remains proud of his roots and views Germany as the home of döner, considering it a significant part of German cuisine. He is also active outside of work, serving as the chairman of the local small animal breeding association in Ludwigsburg, where he lives with his wife and two children.
Birtat employs 115 workers who produce 35 to 40 tons of döner skewers daily, using beef, pork, and chicken. The skewers can weigh up to 100 kilograms and are portable only by two people. The company's reach extends beyond Germany, with around 170 restaurants of the chain GDK ("German Doner Kebab") worldwide, including locations in London, New York, and the Arabian Peninsula.
Doganer has expressed a desire for a training program for döner production, aiming to be recognized as a "Specialist in Döner Production" with a German IHK certificate. This ambition reflects his commitment to the döner industry and his passion for ensuring the highest standards in production.
- The workplace-wellness and health-and-wellness of Birtat's employees, particularly those in the science of food-and-drink such as chopping, marinating, and skewering, are crucial topics of discussion, with Muzayfe Doganer, a production manager, leading efforts to address issues like fair pay.
- Muzayfe Doganer's vision extends beyond workplace improvements, as he advocates for other lifestyle initiatives, such as serving as the chairman of the local small animal breeding association in Ludwigsburg, demonstrating his multifaceted commitment to various aspects of life.
- To further his ambition of maintaining the highest standards in production, Doganer is pursuing a specialized training program in döner production, aiming to acquire a "Specialist in Döner Production" certification from the German IHK, demonstrating his dedication to the craft of creating other mixtures of vegetable fats and oils, and ensuring the continued success of the döner industry.
